Subject: Winterization From: Doug FierroSubject: Re: Winterizing 87 MC inboard Date: 22 Nov 1994 20:23:08 GMT > This is my first season owning the boat and I have not winterized a boat > before. Is there anyone whould could > give me some advice? > The main thing you want to make sure is that your block doesn't crack during the winter. The easy way to answer your question is spend the $60 or whatever to take it to the nearest marine shop and have them winterize your boat for you. It's just like storage for any 8-cylinder vehicle over the winter, except you don't have to worry about the tires (except maybe for your trailor!). You need to flush your coolant system for an inboard with anti-freeze. You also need to do some stuff to the spark plugs/cylinders, but I just start the boat up once a month or so (be sure to re-flush with antifreeze!) and that has worked for over three seasons now. Of course, it doesn't snow where I live :-) Make sure you NEVER run your boat on the trailor without hooking up a hose to it! The impeller (not the propeller) needs to have water to lubricate it, so make sure water is circulating when running the boat engine at home. I'm sure your owner's manual has steps to winterize a boat. Talk to your local marine shop or boat dealer. This is something that could be included in a FAQ :-) Doug --- From: bcorson@linarite.telesciences.com (Bob K Corson (Robert)) Subject: Winterizing Instructions Here is an article on winterizing from The Water Skier Magazine courtesy of the American Water Ski Association: Bundle Up Your Boat for Winter Lay-Up by Ken Mangano (taken from the Water Skier, September 1991, pp. 52-3,55) As the skiing season comes to an end in the northern regions of the country, it's time to make plans to winterize your ski boat and prepare your ski gear for lay-up. A little work now will protect your valuable equipment through the winter and make for a smooth launch next spring when the potent sting of the ski bug makes maintenance and repair work almost unbearable. Southern skiers also can use this typically slow time in their skiing schedules to perform annual maintenance that northern skiers execute as part of the winterizing process. Throughout the following descriptions, the symbol ``SS'' indicates procedures applicable to all boaters regardless if their boat will be subjected to freezing weather or a prolonged period of lay- up (over 60 days). Since high performance boats and engines are constantly pushed to their limits in stressful skiing applications, ``An ounce of prevention [preventative maintenance in this case] is worth a pound of cure.'' You should familiarize yourself with your boat, motor and ski gear. Look at it, touch it, smell it and listen to what it tells you. Preventative maintenance and an awareness of how the equipment looks, sounds, smells and feels when it is operating at peak performance are critical to intercepting problems while they are still minor. Systematic checks and evaluations of your equipment before, during and after use will keep any problems under control and add to your sense of security on the water, whether at the helm, in the observer's seat or at the end of the tow rope. Winterization and annual maintenance procedures for inboard and inboard/outboard boats: Oil Change (SS) Brad Johnson, customer service manager for MasterCraft Boats, stresses that an oil change is one of the most important aspects of engine maintenance and winterization. Acids can build-up in used oil and cause corrosion if allowed to remain in the engine during storage. While the boat is still in the water or with a motor-flushing kit in place, warm the engine to normal operating temperature. (Persons who operate their boats in salt, brackish or ``dirty'' water should use a freshwater flush kit throughout these processes to rid the system of contaminants.) Next, change the oil and oil filter. If your boat is not equipped with a ``quick- change'' oil system and the oil pan plug is inaccessible, oil may be drained with a suction pump through the dip-stick tube. To prevent oil from spilling into the bilge when removing the filter, place a small drain pan or cardboard box lined with a plastic bag in the bilge under the oil filter; it'll make for an easy cleanup. When changing the oil, pour approximately one-half quart of oil directly into the new filter before mounting. This will eliminate the lag-time for the new oil to work through the filter at start-up and insure proper lubrication. Also moisten the filter gasket with a light coating of clean oil to insure a good seal; do not over-tighten the filter. After the filter contacts the engine block tighten only one-half turn more by hand. Re-start the engine to circulate the new oil, then shut down and check the level. Put the used oil in a container for transport to a recycling center. Most service stations will accept this small amount of oil. Transmission (Inboard engines only) (SS) Most manufacturers recommend at least a seasonal transmission fluid change. Using a suction pump, remove the old fluid through the filler opening or as specified by the manufacturer. (Examine the old fluid for water, traces of metal or a rancid smell which may indicate a problem that needs the attention of a mechanic. If any of these conditions are present, do not run the engine until the problem is checked and corrected.) Refill the transmission using the fluid or oil specified by the manufacturer. Run the engine to warm the transmission fluid to normal operating temperature and shut down the motor. Immediately check the fluid level as indicated by the manufacturer. Failure to check the level right away will result in inaccurate readings as the fluid expands when heated and runs back into the cooling lines as it cools. Tune-up (SS) Some people like to perform a tune-up at this time so the boat will be ready to go at the beginning of the next season (check with your dealer for engine specifications). If you are not experienced, you may want to have a mechanic do this. If you decide to tune up your engine yourself, consider reinstalling the old spark plugs when winterizing and storing the boat to avoid corrosion or fouling of your new plugs. Fuel treatment There is some debate over whether it's best to stabilize fuel with an additive and top off tanks to prevent accumulation of explosive vapors and condensation or to completely drain the fuel system to prevent gumming in the fuel tank and carburetor. (It is a good idea to check with your dealer for his recommendation.) If you decide to go the fuel stabilization route, now is the time to add the stabilizer to the gas. Run the engine for a few minutes to circulate the stabilized fuel. Internal protection Carefully check for fuel vapors and be certain that the engine compartment is well ventilated. Restart the engine and remove the flame arrestor. With the engine running at fast idle, slowly pour a fogging oil into carburetor until a dense ``fog'' is visible in the exhaust. (Be sure to pour slowly; hydrostatic lock may occur if you pour too fast.) Shut down the motor. According to Craig Warner, warehouse and service manager at New England Correct Craft, a one-to-one blend of the motor oil that you usually run and Marvel's Mystery Oil makes a good fogging oil. The job will take about one-half to one pint of the mixture. This fogging process coats the internal parts of the engine with a thin layer of oil to prevent rust and corrosion. If you did not stabilize the fuel, completely drain the system now. Gasoline is hard to dispose of properly, but the tank of your car or truck will gladly accept this still-fresh fuel. Filters--check and clean or replace (SS) Check and clean or replace the fuel filter, fuel tank pick-up screen, flame arrestor and carburetor fuel screen as recommended by the manufacturer. Clean these items with a solvent and blow dry with low-pressure compressed air. According to Warner, heavy duty cleaners like ``Simple Green'' or ``409'' work well on the flame arrestor and a carburetor cleaner does the job on the screens in the fuel system. The units may be air dried if you don't have access to compressed air. Drain water from the system To prevent damage from freezing or corrosion from condensation, you should drain the cooling system. (Persons with closed cooling systems should check with their dealer for recommendations on draining verses flushing and renewing anti-freeze for the heat exchange unit.) Remove the drain plugs from both sides of the engine block and from the ends of the exhaust manifolds. Although some of the plugs on engine blocks twist open, it is best to remove them completely and keep them out during storage to prevent accumulation of condensation. Remove the hoses from the raw water pump and blow through them to remove all water. Be sure that water in the transmission cooler is also removed at this time. Lowering the trailer tongue will help water flow out of the back of the engine. You may also want to remove the raw water pump impeller to prevent it from taking a ``set'' during storage. (Be sure to coat it with a light coat of oil when you re-install it in the spring; dry start-up will destroy the impeller.) Some manufactures also recommend that you remove the hose from the engine circulation pump, and with the safety starting switch (if so equipped) disconnected, crank the engine over for two or three seconds to remove any water not previously drained. (If your boat is not equipped with a safety disconnected, crank the engine over for two or three seconds to remove any water not previously drained. (If your boat is not equipped with a safety starting switch this procedure may by performed by disconnecting the high tension lead wire between the distributer and the coil.) Place all plugs, hoses, clamps and parts that you intend to leave out during storage in a plastic bag and tie it to the steering wheel to insure that you'll know where to find them in the spring and will not start the boat without reinstalling them. Battery Remove the battery and clean terminals. Check the charge and replenish with a trickle charger if necessary. Store the battery in a cool, dry place where it will not be subjected to freezing temperatures. Periodically check the condition of the battery and replenish with a trickle charger as needed. Always use cation when working with or storing batteries as they naturally produce explosive gases and contain caustic acid. Lubrication (SS) Grease steering, throttle and shift cables as recommended by manufacturer. Be sure to work the wheel and control lever back and forth to coat the entire system. Clean up any old grease purged from the fittings and joints. Also check and grease your trailer wheel bearings. Lower unit maintenance (inboard/outboard engines only) (SS) Change lower unit oil. The gears, bearings and shafts of a stern drive are lubricated by this oil. Stern drives differ in their arrangement so check with your dealer for instructions on changing the oil. Inspect the oil after you drain it. Water droplets or milky-brown color indicate a leak or other problem with the lower unit that must be repaired to avoid damage to the unit. You will also want to remove the propeller and clean and re-grease the shaft especially if the boat was run in salt water. An I/O prop left on the lower unit through the winter may ``freeze-up'' on the shaft and make removal at a later date extremely difficult. Wash and wax (SS) Thoroughly wash the boat inside and out (it'll be a lot easier now then on the first warm day in spring). Apply a coat of wax to fiberglass and polished metal surfaces and a protectant (try to find one that does not contain alcohol like Clear Guard or 303) to seats, motor cover and other polished metal surfaces and a protectant (try to find one that does not contain alcohol like Clear Guard or 303) to seats, motor cover and other vinyl surfaces. Spray motor, electrical parts and exposed metal surfaces with a spray lubricant such as WD-40 or CRC to prevent corrosion. Cover and storage Be sure the boat is completely dry and remove all loose items that may mildew or corrode. Then, cover the boat and tape the exhaust flappers shut to keep nesting animals from making a winter home in your exhaust system. It is best to store your boat indoors or at least under a roofed area. If this i s not possible, you may need to provide extra support for the cover, especially if you are in an area with heavy snows. Two-inch PVC pipe is easy to work with and makes good supports. Its round shape keeps it from damaging your boat cover. Shrink wrapping is also excellent in areas subject to snows. Its slick surface does not allow snow to accumulate and weigh down the protective cover (check with your dealer for availability). If your boat is stored on a trailer, you may want to block the trailer frame to take pressure off the tires and springs. Note to Outboard Owners: Many of the procedures for storage and maintenance discussed here are applicable, with slight modification, to Note to Outboard Owners: Many of the procedures for storage and maintenance discussed here are applicable, with slight modification, to outboard boats as well. Outboards should be flushed, protected internally (fogged) and externally (with spray lubricant and wax), tuned up and have lower unit oil changed. Fuel needs to be drained or stabilized and cooling system needs to be drained. Check with your dealer for procedures specific to your motor. By following these steps and your dealer's recommendations, your boat will be in tip-top condition after its hibernation and you'll be able to concentrate solely on your skiing in the spring. Remember, failure to follow manufacturer's maintenance recommendations may affect warrantee coverage, so always check with your dealer when you have a question. Another good tip for boat owners with heaters and showers
From: wtrski@ix.netcom.com (GORDON JENSEN ) Subject: Winter Freezing = Big Boat Problems! Date: Fri Sep 15 19:55:16 EDT 1995 NOTE: THIS IS LONG WINDED (I USUALLY AM) BUT HOPEFULLY CAN HELP SOME OF YOU THIS WINTER I was looking through the Canadian Waterski Page's FAQs during lunch and looked through the winterization section. Here in Northern California, some of us ski year around and it rarely gets near freezing (I'm not tooting my horn, no flames please). However, about 4 winters ago, we had a terrible freeze that hit us (there were days during the roughly two-week freeze where Anchorage was warmer during the day than we were). All but one of my recently planted Citrus trees died; many other types of vegetation throughout the area also died. We were lucky to get much above freezing during the day, and it was down to the 10s and 20s at night (again, no flames please, I'm just trying to make a point). My boat is kept under an overhang next to my garage (previously in the garage until my wife decided she had to get this house on a hill with a view but unfortunately just didn't have a 3 car garage--too bad for me!). Since it is 'outside', I was very concerned about freezing so I drained everything as best I could (we normally don't need to do it). I was still worried about any residual water so when it really got cold, I put a 100 watt shop light under the engine. With the engine cover closed and the boat cover on, it didn't let any residual water freeze anywhere in the engine compartment. HOWEVER, I have a heater in the boat, and although I thought I had done a pretty good job of draining out all of the water, the heater hoses were such that not all of the water could drain (I didn't realize this until later). When I went out to check it as soon as the temperature finally stayed above freezing, the engine compartment and all hoses with residual water were fine (the light bulb was still on). But when I checked under the bow, the hoses to the heater were stiff with ice. I finally took a blow dryer on low power to the heater and as soon as it started to warm a little, the heater started leaking all over the place. The copper core had split in two places and started leaking when it thawed. Luckily, I was able to re-solder and repair (4 seasons now and no problems). Since then, we haven't had any cold weather like that (occasionally down to just below freezing). But from December to March, I now drain it after every use. The big problem however is still the heater (and shower lines). But I came up with a great way to get all of the water out: USE A WET-DRY VACUUM TO SUCK OUT THE WATER!!! Even when it has gotten cold enough for standing water to freeze a little, I have not had any more problems: Drain the engine, etc. normally. Then connect the vacuum to your drain port and run it for a few minutes (you can usually tell when most of the water is out as the sucking sound changes when only air is being sucked vs. air and some water). The heater and shower use some of the same plumbing so it's easy to pull one hose and then use the various valves to make sure everything is sucked dry. This also sucks the engine as well. And you can even use it to suck the raw water hose at the raw water pump to drain the hose that runs through the trans cooler. Many people had ruined blocks after that bad freeze. I did what I was 'supposed' to do, and although my engine was ok (thank goodness), I still had the heater problem (albeit an easy and inexpensive fix compared to a new block). Since more and more of you have heaters / showers, etc., be very careful since those lines don't drain very well. The last thing you want in early spring when the bug really bites you is to have hot water dripping out of your heater all over your feet! Happy Skiing! And here's hoping it doesn't get cold enough that you need this information! Gordon More useful tips
From SMPG65A@prodigy.com Sun Sep 17 15:49:26 EDT 1995 Newsgroups: rec.sport.waterski Subject: Re: Winter Freezing = Big Boat Problems! >No. 4 is what I have a question on. Am I leaving water in the transmission >cooler yet? How can you get it out? Is this the lowest point in the system? Up here in the Northwest we have to drain the block, manifolds, transmission cooler water pumps heater and shower after EVERY use in winter. There are quick drain stopcocks you can buy for the exhaust manifolds. Just disconnect the shower from the block and that is half the block. The other side is a knock detector (on newer models) and you need a torque wrench or a careful wrenching not to damage it putting it back. Just pull the heater hose off the engine at both ends and blow in the upper hose and it all comes out the lower. Pull the two large hoses off the water pumps and spin the engine. Pull the small plug from the transmission cooler and you're done. When I first started doing this in the winter it took 30min. After a season of practice I can do it in 10min flat. Time well spent as the boat next to mine got a cracked block one cold winter night! Big bucks. Greg C.